A Study on the Cultural Role of Walking Court Ladies’ Hat in Queen Jeongsun’s Wedding Parade Illustration of Oegyujanggak Uigwe

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Choi, Jeong
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International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings
Iowa State University Conferences and Symposia

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This study considers the cultural role of walking court ladies’ hats in a wedding parade illustration of Oegyujanggak Uigwe that focuses on the parade of Queen Jeongsun. Walking court ladies’ hat and hairstyle were changed immediately into a loose wig, jokduri-shaped hat, and chignon when the costume policy was legislated by the king. Jokduri, small padding hat, was recommended by the king’s command in 1756 for the first time instead of a massive wig, however discussions continued from 1748-49. Loose wigs disappeared in wedding parade illustration of Queen Jeongsun of 1759, 4 walking court ladies wore angled black jokduri-shaped hats, and another 4 walking ladies wore angled red jokduri-shaped hats. Jokduri coude be used instead of yang-ieom and supa under the new costume policy. Probably, the shape of ‘gamtu’ for a walking eunuch in same document was one of the references for making new black jokduri-shaped, and the red hat was a modified hat of eoyeom-jokduri which belong to a hair tool of female’s formal court attire. No deco was described in black and red hats of Queen Jeongsun’s wedding parade illustration.Working court ladies who reveal the face could took the role of an official promoting person in regards to the ‘court women’s new official hat’. This kind of propagation was needed because many nobleman thought that the ‘jokduri policy’ was wrong. The role of walking court ladies with jokduri in Queen Jeongsun’s wedding parade illustration meant the ‘official commercial of the king’s command’ despite of their lower status than the horse-riding ladies.