From Roberts' Subtraction Cutting and Dart Manipulation: Concepts for Patternmaking Theory
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The first national meeting of textile and clothing professors took place in Madison, Wisconsin in June 1959. With a mission to advance excellence in education, scholarship and innovation, and their global applications, the International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) is a professional and educational association of scholars, educators, and students in the textile, apparel, and merchandising disciplines in higher education.
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This exploratory design research focuses on Roberts' subtraction cutting technique and dart manipulation with the intention of adding to the knowledge of apparel patternmaking. Three concepts were explored: Subtraction cutting functioning like a dart; however, not visually looking like one, subtraction cutting can use different shapes, and the direction of the joined subtraction cutting shapes impacts the length and volume of a garment. The implications of these concepts, for manufacturing and pedagogy, are also shared.