Craft of usership: A qualitative exploration of the consumer's characteristics and decision-making processes leading to extended product life

Abstract

Consumer Decision-Making models have been used over time to understand and predict purchase decisions. The Engel-Blackwell-Miniard (EBM) model, one of the more widely known consumer decision models used in academic literature, defines a seven-stage process whereby the consumer tries to fulfill an unmet need after searching for alternatives to meet this need. They make the purchase and throughout the apparel garment’s life they decide if they are satisfied or dissatisfied in the post-consumption phase. If the consumer is unhappy with the item this is where they make the decision to divest (i.e., discard) of the item. However, recent trends indicate the consumer is choosing alternative methods (i.e., repair, reuse) to allow them to extend the life of their apparel garments rather than purchasing new. In addition, there is a shift in consumer mindset from one of ‘ownership’ to ‘usership’. These shifts and changes in consumer mindset and behavior indicate a necessary revision to today’s consumer-decision making models to reflect today’s behaviors and practices of this consumer more accurately. Therefore, the goal of this study is to expand the post-consumption phase of the EBM model by describing the decision-making process while also exploring the motivations, values, beliefs, and norms of this individual to inform their decision-making process. After Institutional Board Review approval participants were identified and recruited, using criterion purposive sampling, from Facebook groups targeting individuals who engage in sustainable consumption behaviors involving product life extension. Snowball sampling was chosen as an additional strategy to identify others that met the criteria for the study. Semi-structured, hour-long interviews were conducted with participants and audio recorded via Zoom. Participants were assigned a pseudonym prior to the interview to protect participant confidentiality. The audio file was transcribed by third-party provider Scribie. For security and privacy of participants all audio recordings, interview transcripts, and data analyses were stored in a university protected data cloud. As one goal of the study was to understand the behaviors and characteristics of individuals who currently, or might, engage in extended usership of apparel goods an expansion of the post-consumption phase of the EBM model was proposed by exploring the decision-making process, skill set, resources, and related modification practices. The Product Lifecycle Expansion (PLE) model describes the step-by-step process for the consumer who extends the life of their apparel garments. First, the consumer explores options for items that might be thought of as no longer having usable life. If they decide to keep the item, they determine what skill set and/or resources are necessary to carry out modification tasks to extend life of the garment through the original purpose or new purpose. In the modification process, they also decide what function, aesthetics, and expressive needs are desired in the ‘new’ item. This research is necessary because finding sustainable consumer-oriented apparel solutions is essential in creating more usable life of garments and traditional consumer behavior models don’t reflect reuse decision-making practices, tools, and resources used to employ the desired end product results. Although the PLE model provided step-by-step guidance on the decision-making process, it still lacked a deeper explanation of other influencing factors such as motivations, values, beliefs, and norms that inform and support steps in the PLE decision-making process. Fit, consistent with previous literature, was a major motivating factor in the decision to modify apparel garments. Control and empowerment were also key themes as participants felt they had more power to make decisions about their garments. Making modifications to apparel garments served as a creative outlet allowing participants in the study to experience joy in reworking their garment to continue its usable life. Finally, participants viewed their clothing as an unlimited reusable resource with endless life. Findings of this study are useful to designers who might consider creating products for longevity to allow and encourage the consumer to extend the life of their apparel garments. Retailers and brands can use information shared in this study to review current practices while also implementing new processes and business models to meet the needs of today’s sustainability focused consumer. In addition, circular business models that include reuse options such as swapping, rental, and auctions could prove beneficial in meeting both consumer and retailer needs. For the consumer, it is an avenue to allow them to practice apparel garment life extension and continuously update their wardrobes with the newest fashion styles. The retailer also makes valuable contributions by potentially offering these services to a wide variety of consumers and using this as an opportunity to educate the consumer on sustainable practices. In both cases, harmful impacts to the environment are lessened. This research also acknowledges the need for sewing-related curriculum, in both primary-level and adult continuing education options, that teach basic sewing knowledge to reinforce and motivate consumers awareness so that they may have the skills to make basic repairs and engage in higher levels of reuse practices.